Monday, June 13, 2005

Antigua to Deshaies, Guadeloupe

Woke up feeling poorly with lower GI cramps. Wonderful. The toilet in the head doesn't work so well so this isn't going to be fun. I spent most of the morning in our cabin, sleeping while we left Antigua behind.

By noon I was feeling better. The passage from Antigua to Guadeloupe is about 40 miles, but with favorable winds (unlike the passage from Nevis to Antigua). Again, the winds were light, so we had to motorsail. We passed Montserrat, which was wreathed in clouds.



I looked at it through binoculars and saw that the clouds seemed to be coming from the crater. The interior of the clouds looked thick and grey and I wondered if the volcano was spewing ash. We hadn't heard anything about it becoming active again, so it must be steam. I could see the lava flows from when it erupted (whenever that was--1997?). It was very impressive.

We also saw a whale--or rather Kent and couple of others saw a whale. I missed it. Then we saw a pod of dolphins a little ways off the bow. I was hoping they would swim alongside us, but they disappeared. And the strangest sight was a seagull. Not an ordinary seagull, floating on the water, but rather a seagull perched on a coconut, riding the current, proving that there is more than one way to travel the Caribbean.

We arrived in Deshaies around 1700h or so, a beautiful little bay. The town is small fishing village. Definitely local, not so touristy. Tom and I dinghied over to Les Canons de Baie, a colorfully painted restaurant that overlooks the bay, to make reservations for dinner.

This is the bay at Deshaies.



Dinner was good, although I drank a bit too much. I started out with a ti punch (free if you present Doyle's guide). It's made with white rum, sugar, and lime. Very tasty, but strong. My appetizer was a fish flan, which was quite good. It was served cold, with a sauce that had some kind of acid in it--perhaps vinegar? Then grilled lobster and coconut flan for dessert. The flan was the best I ever had--creamy, cool, with just the right amount of caramel, and loaded with coconut flavor. Dessert was followed by a small glass of vieux rhum, old rum. It was very smooth and very strong. One-quarter of the amount would have been perfect.

The restaurant is run by Gilles and Cesarina and they have a 5-month old little boy called JD. He was so cute and so big for his age. Both Gilles and Cesarina were very nice and provided excellent service.

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